Gold Chain Necklace

Box and curb are the most durable — solid links that resist twisting. Cable and satellite sit in the middle. Herringbone is the weakest by some distance: it kinks permanently if bent the wrong way and can't be repaired afterwards. If a chain will carry a heavy pendant or be worn constantly, choose box.

Match it to the pendant. A wide nameplate on a fine chain eventually opens the bail and fails. A heavy chain under a dainty charm swamps it. If you're buying a chain alone to layer, finer is more versatile — you can always add a second.

Real gold over solid sterling silver, at 3.0 microns. Industry standard is 0.2 and most gold plating is 0.5. Chains are a harder test than pendants because links rub against each other constantly — thickness matters more here than almost anywhere else.

16 inches sits at the base of the throat, 18 just below the collarbone, 20 on the chest over a crewneck. For layering, keep them two inches apart. 14 inch is the shortest we make — measure your neck rather than guessing at those.

Almost always, and usually cheaply — a snapped link or a failed clasp is a quick solder. The exception is herringbone, where a crease is permanent. On plated chains, ask the jeweller to keep heat away from the surface; heavy soldering can discolour the finish around the repair.

Different lengths and different link patterns. Two similar chains at similar lengths will braid within an hour. Two inches apart, with visibly different links — a box chain and a paperclip — stays separate. A layering clasp joins them at the back if you'd rather not think about it.